River Dart Boat Trip from Dartmouth to Totnes: Complete Route Guide

A River Dart boat trip between Dartmouth and Totnes is, in our view, one of the best boat trips in Devon.

We have known and loved the river for years, through organised cruises, journeys in our own boats and childhood memories of places along its banks.

For this trip, we travelled upriver aboard Cardiff Castle with Dartmouth River Boats. The nine-mile cruise usually takes around 90 minutes, with departure times governed by the tide.

This is both a review of our cruise and a detailed guide to what to see on the River Dart.

Drawing on our experience of exploring it, we point out what to look for along the way, including villages, wildlife, vineyards, old mills, boatyards, maritime history and even some remarkable luxury places to stay by the River Dart.

The guide works equally well for a boat trip from Totnes to Dartmouth, although the change in direction and state of the tide can make the river look remarkably different.

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River Dart Boat Trip Map

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Dartmouth to Totnes River Cruise: Tickets and Boarding

We booked online but still needed to collect our ticket from the kiosk near Dartmouth’s North Embankment Pontoon.

If it is busy, arrive early and check that you are in the correct queue, as the Kingswear ferry and other pleasure cruises leave from the same pontoon. Tickets may be checked while you queue or as you board.

At Steamer Quay in Totnes, the ticket office is directly opposite the steps to the boat, and there is usually only one queue. We found the system straightforward at both ends.

We sat outside on the upper deck of Cardiff Castle and would happily choose the same place again. The steps were quite steep, but the views were excellent. Our early departure was relatively quiet, allowing us to move around and photograph landmarks on both sides without getting in anyone’s way.

Boarding in Dartmouth and leaving at Totnes was easy because the pontoon and quay were almost level with the boat, although this will vary with the tide.

There was a bar serving hot and cold drinks and a toilet on board. Purchases were cash only when we travelled.

Most importantly, the crew were friendly, and the commentary was clear, informative and delivered with typical Devon humour.

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River Dart Cruise Timetable, Tides and Best Time to Travel

If we could choose, we would make the River Dart cruise around high water, preferably on a fine day when the sun brings out the colours of the wooded riverbanks and villages.

In practice, the timetable is governed by the tide because passenger boats need sufficient water to reach Totnes. The upper river dries extensively at low water, so departure times vary from day to day.

Even within that operating window, the tide makes a noticeable difference. At lower water levels, mudflats and sandbanks emerge, creeks become shallow, and the deep-water channel is easier to identify. This can be fascinating because it reveals the river’s shape, normally hidden beneath the water.

At higher water, the Dart feels broader and fuller, while places such as Stoke Gabriel and Bow Creek are particularly attractive. For a first trip, we would choose plenty of water if the timetable allows.

You can check tidal predictions using ADMIRALTY EasyTide, although the operator’s published timetable should always be your main guide when planning a cruise.

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Leaving Dartmouth on a River Dart Boat Trip

There can be few better places to begin. Dartmouth rises steeply from the western bank while Kingswear faces it across the water. Ferries cross between them, yachts and working boats fill the harbour and steam trains arrive at Kingswear. The whole scene feels unmistakably maritime.

Before boarding, look for the Boat Float behind Dartmouth’s waterfront. The modern embankment was largely completed during the 1880s on reclaimed land, enclosing this small tidal harbour. Boats still enter through the channel beneath the road when the water level is sufficient. It is an easily missed reminder that the Dart once reached farther into Dartmouth, towards what is now Market Square.

Dartmouth’s Railway and Naval History

Kingswear developed as Dartmouth’s eastern gateway. Travellers arriving from Exeter and Torbay could cross by ferry instead of making the long journey around through Totnes. When the railway reached Kingswear in 1864, passengers completed their journey by boat. This explains the former Dartmouth Station building on the Dartmouth waterfront, even though no railway line ever reached the town itself. Steam trains still run between Paignton and Kingswear today.

High above Dartmouth is Britannia Royal Naval College. Naval officer training came to the town in 1863, initially aboard ships moored on the Dart. The present college opened in the early 20th Century and still dominates the skyline.

After the college was damaged by bombing in 1942, the river became an important base for preparations for the Normandy invasion. Thousands of American naval personnel were stationed around Dartmouth, while hundreds of landing craft filled the harbour. Photographs from June 1944 show troops, vehicles, and anti-tank guns being loaded for the invasion of Normandy.

That wartime story continues surprisingly far upriver.

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Higher Ferry and Old Mill Creek

Before Dartmouth finally begins to disappear behind us, we pass the Higher Ferry, which carries vehicles, cyclists and pedestrians across the Dart between Dartmouth and Kingswear. It provides an important alternative to the long (and slightly tortuous) road journey around the river via Totnes.

A ferry has crossed here since the 19th Century, with earlier versions known locally as the Floating Bridge. Unlike the Lower Ferry, which uses powered ferryboats to guide its vehicle pontoons across the river, the modern Higher Ferry is attached to cables that span the Dart. It has no steering at all.

Nearby, Old Mill Creek disappears from the main river. Hidden among the trees are remnants of historic pleasure grounds associated with the Seale family, including the curious Hermitage Castle. Despite the name, it is a folly rather than a defensive castle and is very easy to miss from the boat.

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Noss and the Wartime Dart

Continuing upriver brings us to Noss, one of the Dart’s great historic shipbuilding sites. The works were developed by Simpson, Strickland & Company before Philip & Son took over in 1918. Philip’s Dartmouth shipbuilding story had begun in 1858 and continued until 1999.

For generations, the yard was one of the river’s largest employers. It built tugs, ferries, tankers, lightships, minesweepers, naval vessels and yachts, including Chay Blyth’s British Steel.

Noss During the Second World War

During the Second World War, hundreds of people worked at Noss building and repairing military vessels. The yard was bombed in September 1942, killing 20 workers.

Landing craft entered specially constructed maintenance areas at high water. As the tide fell, their flat bottoms settled onto the gridirons, allowing inspection and repairs. Two remarkably complete gridirons survive at Lower Noss Point. It is difficult to reconcile today’s peaceful river with the extraordinary activity here during 1943 and 1944.

Noss on Dart Today

The former shipyard is being transformed into Noss on Dart, with a new boatyard, marine businesses, almost 300 marina berths and 41 waterside apartments and penthouses. Current examples have been marketed for around £1.1 million to £1.6 million. We may have to settle for admiring them from the boat.

The adjoining five-star Noss on Dart Hotel and Spa is planned to include 69 rooms and suites, restaurants, bars, a riverside terrace, and a spa. The hotel and apartments are expected to open or formally launch in spring 2027 following delays.

The marina is already busy, with deep water berths attracting some impressive yachts. The transformation is particularly striking from the river. Where Philip & Son once launched working vessels, large yachts now lie beside luxury apartments.

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Greenway and Dittisham

Greenway and Dittisham come next, with Greenway Quay and Dittisham Quay facing each other across a relatively narrow stretch of the river. The two are remarkably close by water, connected by the little passenger ferry that runs between them, and there is plenty to see on both banks.

Greenway

On the eastern bank is Greenway, one of the major places to visit on the River Dart and best known as Agatha Christie’s former holiday home. Now cared for by the National Trust, the house contains collections associated with Christie and her family, while its extensive gardens descend through woodland towards the river.

The white house can be surprisingly difficult to spot through the trees in summer, although the boathouse is much easier to identify.

Greenway Boathouse

Beneath the boathouse’s open riverside saloon is a saltwater plunge pool, filled from the Dart through openings in the stonework. It fills most completely during high spring tides.

Agatha Christie used the boathouse as a setting in Dead Man’s Folly. In the novel, it becomes the scene of Marlene Tucker’s murder, giving this peaceful building a rather darker literary association.

Greenway’s history predates Christie by centuries, while the present house largely dates from the late 18th Century. During the Second World War it was requisitioned by the US Coast Guard. A wartime frieze painted by a service member survives inside.

Visiting Greenway

Allow several hours to explore the house, gardens, woodland and boathouse. Greenway is an obvious attraction for Christie enthusiasts, but its beautiful riverside setting makes it worth visiting even if you have little interest in her books.

For us, Greenway is best approached by boat. Seasonal services run from Dartmouth, while the on-demand ferry from Dittisham takes around five minutes. Ring the bell near the pontoon and the boat will cross from the opposite bank.

Parking at Greenway must be booked in advance. Alternatively, park in Dittisham and use the ferry. Check current times and fares before travelling.

From the Dart, the relationship between the house, gardens, wooded hillside and boathouse becomes wonderfully clear.

Dittisham

Almost opposite Greenway is Dittisham, pronounced locally as “Ditsum”, climbing steeply from the western bank. It is one of the prettiest villages on the Dart and, although small, well worth leaving the boat to explore.

Having often arrived in our own boat after launching at Totnes, approaching Dittisham from the river remains a personal favourite.

Down by the water are the Ferry Boat Inn, Anchorstone Café, Dittisham Quay and the little passenger ferry to Greenway. Behind them, narrow lanes climb through the village towards the church and community shop.

Parking in Dittisham and Visiting Greenway

The grassy recreation ground beside the river is known as The Ham. There are two village car parks, including one nearby.

At low tide, you can walk from The Ham along the foreshore to the quay, pub and café. We rather like this route, but it disappears beneath the water as the tide rises. At high tide, follow the signposted lane from the corner of the playing field, then turn left down the hill.

Dittisham is also an easy starting point for visiting Greenway. Park in the village and take the short passenger ferry across to Greenway Quay, avoiding Greenway’s narrow approach roads and prebooked parking.

Staying or Arriving by Boat

Dittisham would make a lovely base for exploring the Dart and is home to some of its most expensive properties. Holiday cottages and self-catering accommodation are, however, available beside the water and across the hillside, putting the river, pub, café and Greenway ferry close by.

For independent boaters, Dart Harbour provides visitor buoys off Dittisham, with a dinghy pontoon and nearby anchorages. Once moored, you can take your dinghy ashore or catch the ferry to Greenway without moving your main boat.

Perhaps because we have approached it this way so often, Dittisham still feels like a village best reached by water.

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Flat Owers and Galmpton Creek

Beyond Dittisham, the geography of the Dart becomes particularly interesting. The broad area of sand and mud known as Flat Owers appears as the tide falls, forcing deeper draught vessels to follow the main channel in a wide sweep around the shallows. With more water, a direct route may be possible.

At low tide, this is one of the best places to appreciate how much the tide affects navigation on the upper Dart.

Galmpton Creek

As the boat turns, Galmpton Creek opens on the right. I remember coming down to the foreshore for barbecues as a child, so I still associate the creek with quiet summer evenings rather than shipbuilding. In fact, it has a long maritime history.

Galmpton’s yards built merchant vessels, steam yachts and many of the wooden sailing trawlers associated with Brixham. During the Second World War, they also built and repaired military vessels, including motor gun boats and motor torpedo boats.

A few surviving Brixham trawlers provide a visible link with this industry. Among the best known is Provident, built at Galmpton in 1924.

Limestone was also quarried beside the creek and burnt in kilns to produce quicklime for agriculture, mortar and building. Some stone left the Dart as ballast aboard sailing ships. Today, much of this industrial landscape is occupied by boatyards, marine businesses and yacht storage.

Visitor buoys are available outside Galmpton Creek for independent boaters, with a high water dinghy landing at Dolphin Boatyard. From there, you can walk uphill into Galmpton village.

Broadsands Beach is only a little over a mile away, creating a rather unexpected walking link between the River Dart and the English Riviera.

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Waddeton and Long Stream

Around Waddeton and Maypool are further traces of the Dart’s wartime history. One of the best surviving D-Day maintenance sites lies on the eastern bank near Maypool, where 12 concrete piers formed a gridiron more than 50 metres wide. Flat-bottomed landing craft were floated sideways across it at high water and settled onto timber rails as the tide ebbed, allowing their hulls to be inspected, cleaned and repaired. A small raised quay and other parts of the facility also survive.

Much older remains can be seen near Waddeton. A line of stones is believed to be associated with historic tidal fish traps or ponds, traditionally linked to the monks of Torre Abbey. Fish entering on the rising tide could be retained as the water ebbed using nets or barriers across the openings.

Beyond Waddeton, the river straightens noticeably into Long Stream, the longest obvious straight section of our journey. After the bends and constantly changing views farther downstream, the Dart suddenly seems to stretch away ahead.

During the Second World War, stakes were placed in this long, straight stretch of the river as a defence against enemy seaplanes attempting to land on the water. It is another easily overlooked reminder of just how strategically important the Dart became during the war. Today, with wooded hillsides and peaceful countryside on either bank, it is difficult to imagine Long Stream being regarded as a potential landing ground for enemy aircraft.

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Sandridge Barton

On the right, the countryside rises towards Sandridge Barton, today best known for its vineyard and winery following the move of the former Sharpham wine operation across the river. Its history, however, reaches considerably further back.

Sandridge Barton has a particularly close connection to the history of exploration. The Elizabethan navigator John Davis was born at Sandridge around 1550 and grew up beside the Dart. Between 1585 and 1587, he led three expeditions in search of the Northwest Passage, exploring the waters between Greenland and Arctic Canada. Davis Strait still carries his name.

Davis later sailed to the East Indies and was killed near Bintan Island in 1605 following an attack by Japanese pirates. His life provides a real link between this quiet corner of the Dart and some of the great Elizabethan voyages of exploration.

Down beside the river is Sandridge Boathouse, one of the most unusual places to stay on the Dart. The restored 19th-century boathouse is now secluded self-catering accommodation for four, with a balcony overlooking the river. Its remoteness is very real: access takes you through the vineyard and woodland before descending to the water, which helps explain why it appears so wonderfully isolated when seen from the boat.

Salmon Fishing on the Dart

Commercial salmon fishing was once an important part of life on the Dart. Netsmen were particularly associated with Stoke Gabriel, Duncannon and riverside buildings such as Sandridge Boathouse. Seine netting involved fixing one end of a long net ashore while the other was carried into the river by rowing boat, creating a broad circle around fish moving through the estuary.

The number of salmon and licensed boats declined considerably during the 20th Century. In the 1950s there were reportedly 18 licensed boats operating on the Dart, but commercial netting has since disappeared. The old netting stations, boathouses, and local memories are now among the few reminders of an industry that once followed returning Atlantic salmon upriver.

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Stoke Gabriel

The next major village is Stoke Gabriel, one of our favourites on the Dart. From the main channel, you can look along the creek towards the Mill Pool, with the church above and the village tucked away behind.

The Mill Pool and Ancient Yew

The Mill Pool was created by a stone-faced tidal dam known as the foss. Water entering on the rising tide was trapped, then released through sluices as the river fell to power two corn mills.

The mills have disappeared, but the dam and pool remain defining features of Stoke Gabriel. Ducks, swans and herons gather here, while a waterside path leads towards the village.

Above stands the Church of St Mary and St Gabriel beside an enormous ancient yew. Its precise age is disputed, but it is unquestionably very old. Local tradition claims that walking backwards around it seven times without stumbling may earn you a wish.

Visiting Stoke Gabriel

Beside the quay is The River Shack, while farther into the village are the Castle Inn, Church House Inn and a small shop with a Post Office. Public toilets are available at the quay. When we visited, there was also a drinking water tap beside the slipway.

Holiday cottages and self-catering accommodation make Stoke Gabriel a peaceful base for exploring the Dart, with Totnes, Dartmouth and Torbay within reach.

Arriving by Boat

Two white visitor buoys lie near the creek entrance. Dinghies can reach a pontoon farther in when the water is sufficiently deep. At lower water, Mill Point provides an alternative landing. Dart Harbour advises that it can be used when the tide height at Stoke Gabriel is 2.3 metres or less, although the foreshore route into the village can be uneven and slippery.

Small craft may also launch from the quay slipway but only with the owner’s permission. By road, our preferred approach is via the A3022 at Collaton St Mary, then Stoke Road, as other routes involve even narrower Devon lanes.

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Bow Creek and Tuckenhay

Shortly after Stoke Gabriel, Bow Creek opens on the left. At low water, much of it dries, but with sufficient tide it becomes one of the loveliest diversions from the main Dart, winding inland through increasingly secluded countryside towards Tuckenhay.

If you have a suitable small boat, it is particularly tempting. Dart Harbour provides visitor buoys near the entrance and recommends exploring the drying creek at high tide. Small craft can follow the winding channel towards Tuckenhay, where it is possible to land at the Maltsters Arms, directly beside the water. It must be one of the nicest ways to arrive at a Devon pub.

The Maltsters Arms also has accommodation, making it an unusual base for exploring the Dart Valley, while farther along the valley at Bow Bridge is The Waterman’s Arms, another historic waterside inn where you can stay.

The alternative is to reach Tuckenhay by road. We have driven there ourselves and can confirm that the final lanes are very narrow. Having been born in Devon and being reasonably accustomed to narrow Devon lanes, even I found some sections tight. I wouldn’t particularly want to tackle them in a motorhome and would resist any urge to bring a caravan. Arriving by water suddenly seems even more attractive.

Tuckenhay’s Industrial Past

The tranquillity is slightly deceptive because Tuckenhay was once a remarkably busy industrial settlement. Lime, corn, malt, paper, rope, cider and stone were among the goods produced or handled here, with merchant vessels reaching Tuckenhay Quay when the tide permitted.

Papermaking became the village’s most important industry. Tuckenhay Mill produced high-quality handmade and mould-made paper, much of it made from processed rags. Its products were used for specialist purposes including legal documents, cheques and financial stationery.

The mill stopped making paper in January 1962 but continued producing rag pulp until August 1970. The machinery was subsequently removed, and the historic mill buildings were converted into luxury holiday accommodation. They retain much of their original character and now provide an unusual place to stay beside Bow Creek.

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Duncannon

Back on the main river, tiny Duncannon appears on the right. It is often described as a village, although in reality it is no more than a handful of houses.

There is a longstanding local story that Duncannon owes its status as a “village” rather than a hamlet to an error in an old census, in which its population was supposedly recorded as considerably larger than it actually was. We haven’t found any real evidence (yet) to confirm the tale, so for all we know an enterprising local tourist board might have invented it. It’s a good story though.

Duncannon can also be reached on foot from the Stoke Gabriel direction. We haven’t walked the route ourselves yet, but it looks like another interesting way to explore this quieter part of the Dart from land.

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Ashprington Point

Opposite is Ashprington Point, part of the wider Sharpham Trust and home to one of the most unusual places to camp beside the Dart.

The Sharpham Trust’s Point Field is a simple seasonal campsite for around 10 to 12 small tents, hired exclusively rather than on an individual pitch basis. In 2026, prices start at £170 per night for up to 20 people, with additional guests at £8.50 each, up to a maximum of 30.

Facilities are basic, with running water, two compost toilets and the option to have a fire. The field slopes towards the Dart and areas close to the water can flood, so the tide matters here too.

Getting there is part of the adventure. Vehicle access is along an unsurfaced lane that can be difficult in wet conditions, and the Trust describes Point Field as “better by canoe”. Canoe Adventures can even transport campers and their equipment from Totnes, Stoke Gabriel or Tuckenhay.

Seen from the river, Point Field looks wonderfully isolated. For simple group camping or an overnight stop while exploring the Dart by canoe, it is difficult to imagine a more appropriate setting.

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Ham Reach and Sharpham

Beyond Ashprington Point the river bends left into Ham Reach, with Sharpham Wood rising steeply from the bank. This is one of the most peaceful parts of the journey, with relatively little to suggest that Totnes is now only a few miles away.

Towards the end of the wood are two wonderfully secluded places to stay beside the River Dart. The Bathing House dates from the 18th Century and was built at around the same time as Sharpham House. Created as a riverside retreat for the estate, it is now an unusual self-catering cottage with a balcony and terrace overlooking the water.

Close by is The Boat House, a smaller riverside holiday cottage for two. It has outdoor space beside the Dart and is particularly appealing if you want to bring kayaks, canoes or paddleboards and explore the river directly from where you are staying.

Both feel remarkably remote considering how close they are to Totnes, and their location makes much more sense when you see them from the river.

High above is Sharpham House, an imposing 18th-century country house in an extraordinary position overlooking the Dart. Today the estate is home to the Sharpham Trust, with a focus on retreats, learning, conservation and nature restoration.

Anyone familiar with this stretch of the river from years ago may notice one significant change. The vineyard that once covered the slopes below Sharpham House has gone. Sharpham’s wine production moved across the Dart to Sandridge Barton, while the former vineyard has been returned to meadow as part of the estate’s changing landscape.

The Old Sharpham Quay

Continue upriver and look carefully along the bank for the small old stone quay associated with Sharpham. It is easy to miss from the passenger boat, but we know it rather better than we might like.

This is where my wife, my in-laws, and I once got tied up in the rain after I misjudged the (low) tide at Totnes. More of that particular adventure when we get farther upriver, but it certainly made Sharpham Quay memorable.

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Fleet Mill Quay

On the opposite bank is Fleet Mill Quay, another easily overlooked place with a surprisingly interesting history. A water-powered mill once stood here, served by a substantial quay that allowed goods and materials to be moved along the Dart when the river was an important transport route.

Behind the quay are remnants of the old mill system, including waterways and former sluices that controlled the water used to power the mill. The surrounding landscape has changed considerably since then, particularly as tidal water has returned to areas previously separated from the river.

Today it is a quiet and easily missed corner of the upper Dart, but knowing something of its history makes the old quay much more interesting as you pass. Like so many places along the river, what now looks peaceful and rural was once part of a much busier working landscape.

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The Hole in the Wall

On the left is the feature known locally as the Hole in the Wall, where tidal water passes through a breach in the riverbank into the marshes behind. What may initially look like a small opening has developed into a much more substantial tidal channel, allowing the Dart to flood and drain an increasingly extensive area of wetland.

The landscape behind is now a mixture of channels, mud, reedbeds and saltmarsh, changing considerably with the tide. What particularly struck us is just how little separates some of it from the main river. In places the remaining strip of bank is remarkably narrow and, seen from the boat, it looks surprisingly close to being breached altogether.

If that eventually happened, a section of the remaining riverbank could effectively become an island, with the Dart flowing on both sides.

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Home Reach and the First View of Totnes

We now enter Home Reach and get our first proper glimpse of Totnes in the distance. After miles of wooded riverbanks, creeks, and small villages, the surroundings gradually feel busier as we approach the town.

Rowers, canoeists and paddleboarders become increasingly common here. The upper Dart is used by Dart Totnes Rowing Club and Totnes Canoe Club, although the river remains tidal and the amount of usable water changes considerably as the tide falls.

On the western bank, paths wind through the Sharpham landscape towards Ashprington and Totnes. Many form part of the Dart Valley Trail, a network of walking routes linking communities and countryside between Totnes and Dartmouth.

The eight-mile section between Totnes and Dittisham passes through the countryside around Ashprington and Cornworthy, with views across the upper River Dart. It is graded as a moderate walk, but includes stiles, flights of steps, two steep climbs and paths that can become muddy after wet weather.

Further downriver, other sections link Dittisham with Greenway, Dartmouth and Kingswear. Ferries across the Dart make it possible to combine walking with time on the water, although the trail is best approached as a series of separate walks rather than one continuous riverside path.

Seen from the boat, the section around Sharpham looks particularly inviting as the path passes through woodland and open countryside, with occasional views across the Dart. We haven’t walked it yet, but after seeing it properly from the river, it has certainly gone onto our list.

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Longmarsh

On the right is Longmarsh, now a pleasant riverside space with grassland, paths, benches and parking. Historically, however, it formed part of the tidal marshes surrounding the upper Dart.

Its appearance changed significantly during the early 19th Century. The Duke of Somerset embanked Long Marsh and developed Steamer Quay as Totnes expanded its river trade. Raised banks and defences dating from the 1830s separated much of the marsh from the estuary while helping maintain the shipping channel. Warehouses followed as this part of Totnes became increasingly important for trade.

Longmarsh has since had some surprising uses. During the First World War, part of it was used as a rifle range. More recently, it has developed into an important recreational and wildlife area, retaining grassland, reedbed and saltmarsh habitats.

Conservation work has allowed more tidal water into selected areas to help restore saltmarsh, while improved paths allow people to explore without damaging sensitive habitats. Longmarsh was designated a County Wildlife Site in January 2025.

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Baltic Wharf

On the left is Baltic Wharf, a site that tells much of Totnes’s story as a working river port. Once low-lying marshland, it became a shipyard during the Second World War, where wooden minesweepers were built. After the war, the Reeves timber business developed it into one of Totnes’s most important industrial sites.

F J Reeves had imported timber through Totnes since the early 20th Century, with ships arriving from Sweden, Finland, Poland, Latvia and Russia. The business expanded after the war and became a major local employer. The sight of cargo ships navigating this far up the narrow tidal Dart must have been extraordinary.

The final timber ship arrived in September 1993, and the yard closed in 1995.

Team Philips at Baltic Wharf

Baltic Wharf later came to occupy a very different place in maritime history. Devon sailor Pete Goss and his team built Team Philips here, an extraordinary 120-foot, twin-masted catamaran intended for The Race, a nonstop circumnavigation. At the time, it was the largest ocean racing yacht ever built.

I remember coming here to see Team Philips. We were far from alone. Its free visitor centre reportedly attracted around 1.2 million people, demonstrating the enormous public interest in the project.

The boat was launched from Baltic Wharf in February 2000 and later named by Queen Elizabeth II in London. Sadly, it was abandoned during a severe North Atlantic storm later that year after suffering serious structural problems. The crew were rescued safely, but the vessel was lost.

For a brief period, this quiet upper reach of the Dart was home to one of the most radical ocean racing projects ever attempted.

Baltic Wharf remains connected with the river as a working boatyard and marine business centre, with lifting facilities, hardstanding and a slipway. Knowing its history completely changes what you see from the water.

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The Baltic Wharf Turning Bay

As you approach Baltic Wharf, look across to the opposite bank for a large V-shaped indentation in the riverside. It appears almost natural from the boat, but was deliberately created as a turning bay for timber ships making the remarkable journey up the Dart to Totnes.

These vessels travelled upriver to Baltic Wharf, where Reeves and its successors operated a major timber business. Cargoes arrived from northern Europe and the Baltic, but as ships became larger, the river no longer provided enough room for them to turn. Cutting into the opposite bank created the distinctive turning bay visible today.

It must have been quite a sight. Large coasters had already negotiated the narrow, winding and tidal river from Dartmouth, only to reach Totnes with remarkably little room to manoeuvre. Timber ships continued travelling this far upriver until 1993. The trade eventually declined as larger ports became more competitive and dredging of the upper Dart ceased.

The turning bay retains a practical maritime purpose. Baltic Wharf describes this stretch of river as navigable by vessels up to around 60 metres long at suitable states of tide, with the bay capable of turning vessels of a similar length.

Unless someone points it out, there is little reason to recognise why the bank has such an unusual shape. Once you know the story, however, it becomes one of the clearest clues to the scale of commercial shipping that once reached the upper Dart.

Longmarsh Car Park and Slipway, Totnes

Beside the rowing club and turning bay, Longmarsh Car Park has a convenient, easy-to-use public slipway for launching kayaks, paddleboards and small boats. We have launched our own boat here, although, as you will read below, access to the River Dart depends heavily on the tide.

Totnes Kayaks offers kayak and canoe hire and guided River Dart trips and, in good weather, can be found by the slipway. Designated overnight motorhome parking is also available at Longmarsh, with fabulous views across the River Dart. Check the South Hams District Council website for current parking charges and restrictions.

Our Longmarsh Tide Mishap

Do check the tides. On one memorable return from Dartmouth, my wife, my in-laws and I came within about 20 metres of the slipway, only to find that the remaining stretch had become little more than a trickle, with the tide still falling.

Rather red-faced, I turned back, and we sheltered from the rain at Sharpham Quay until there was enough water to try again. It was not one of my more popular navigational decisions, and I am regularly reminded of it, even today.

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The End of Our River Dart Boat Trip at Steamer Quay

All too soon, and rather reluctantly, we arrive at Steamer Quay in Totnes. After around nine miles and 90 minutes, the wooded Dart has given way to the town, with very little navigable water remaining ahead.

Depending on the vessel, tide and service, there may be one final point of interest before stepping ashore. The passenger boat may need to turn in the confined upper river before coming alongside or starting its return journey. From the deck, it is an impressive manoeuvre and a reminder of how substantial these boats are compared with the narrow stretch of water available.

Steamer Quay has a long association with passenger boats. It was developed during the 19th Century as part of improvements to this end of Totnes, and daily steamboat services to Dartmouth later departed from here. Remarkably, the old booking office survives and is still used for River Dart boat trips.

This was where we reluctantly left Cardiff Castle. For passengers travelling in the opposite direction, Steamer Quay is where the adventure begins. The Totnes to Dartmouth boat trip takes around 90 minutes either way, with departure times governed by the tide.

Public toilets and The Riverside Café are available beside the quay. Alongside is Steamer Quay Club Campsite, established in 1970 and recently redeveloped for year round use. Longmarsh is immediately nearby, while the historic centre of Totnes is within easy walking distance.

Round Robin passengers continue by bus towards Paignton. Those travelling independently can use local buses or Totnes railway station for onward journeys.

We would not rush away. Totnes is one of the most interesting towns in Devon, with independent shops, markets, excellent cafés and restaurants, and a fascinating history. It also became the world’s first Transition Town.

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Vire Island

Just beyond Steamer Quay is Vire Island, a long, narrow green space in the middle of the river. It takes its name from Totnes’s twin town of Vire in Normandy and today is a peaceful place for a short walk or picnic, with trees, grass, benches and views along the Dart.

Its quiet appearance hides a connection with the working river. Vire Island was once the site of a busy boatyard, part of a wider concentration of boatbuilding and riverside industry around this end of Totnes. Very high spring tides can still cover parts of the island, particularly around its lower end.

If you have arrived at Steamer Quay, Vire Island is only a short walk away and makes a pleasant continuation of the journey on foot before heading into the town centre.

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The End of the Navigable River Dart

Continue beyond Steamer Quay and the Dart quickly narrows as it approaches the centre of Totnes. Ahead are the historic Totnes Bridge and the newer road bridge, which effectively mark the end of the navigable tidal river for most boats.

The Grade II listed stone bridge was designed by Devon architect Charles Fowler and completed in 1828, replacing an earlier medieval crossing. Fowler later became particularly well known for designing the market building at Covent Garden in London. At low water, remains associated with the earlier bridge can still be seen nearby.

It is quite a contrast with where we started. At Dartmouth, the Dart is a broad, busy harbour filled with yachts, ferries and sizeable vessels. Nine miles later, it has narrowed into a much smaller river flowing through the heart of Totnes.

The water continues, of course. Totnes marks the tidal limit rather than the beginning of the Dart. Much farther north on Dartmoor, the East Dart and West Dart rise separately before meeting at Dartmeet. From there, the River Dart flows south towards Totnes, where the freshwater river meets the tidal estuary, before continuing to Dartmouth and the sea.

Our trip has therefore covered almost the entire navigable tidal River Dart, from one of Britain’s great natural harbours to the point where navigation effectively ends.

Exploring Totnes

It would be a shame to arrive by boat and immediately leave. Totnes is one of Devon’s most distinctive towns and deserves some time of its own.

From Steamer Quay you can walk beside the river and Vire Island before heading into the historic town centre. Totnes has independent shops, cafés and pubs, a market, the Guildhall and Totnes Castle, with the town climbing quite steeply away from the river.

Two places well worth visiting are Totnes Guildhall, which occupies part of a Benedictine priory founded in 1088, and nearby Totnes Castle, a remarkably well-preserved Norman motte and bailey castle with extensive views across the town and surrounding countryside. The Guildhall itself dates from the 16th century and provides a fascinating introduction to Totnes’s long history.

Arriving by boat also gives Totnes a rather different context. Today we tend to think of it as a historic market town, but the journey up the Dart makes its maritime past much easier to understand. Ships once came surprisingly far upriver to unload cargo, Baltic Wharf handled imported timber and Steamer Quay connected the town with regular passenger services down the Dart.

Staying in Totnes

A one way River Dart cruise also lends itself rather nicely to an overnight stay. Instead of immediately arranging the return journey, you can spend the afternoon and evening exploring Totnes and continue the following day.

There is a good choice of places to stay in Totnes, including hotels, guesthouses, apartments and self-catering accommodation. One of the best known is the Royal Seven Stars Hotel, close to the bottom of the historic town centre and within walking distance of Steamer Quay.

Exploring the Upper River Dart in Your Own Boat

Although this guide follows our Dartmouth to Totnes River Dart cruise, much of the journey can also be made independently in your own boat. We have done exactly that ourselves, launching our small boat at Longmarsh in Totnes and exploring downriver as far as Dittisham.

We have also approached the Dart from the other direction in our larger boat, sailing from Plymouth and staying at Darthaven Marina in Kingswear. Exploring from the water gives you a very different perspective, whether you arrive from the sea, launch farther upriver or simply spend a day pottering between the villages and creeks.

Dart Harbour provides visitor moorings at Dittisham, Galmpton, Stoke Gabriel and Bow Creek, with dinghy landing points allowing you to go ashore. Small boats, kayaks and paddleboards can also be launched at several places along the river, including the public slipway at Longmarsh.

The upper Dart is very tidal, however. Several creeks dry extensively and the river becomes increasingly shallow towards Totnes, so depths, landing places and even the routes available to you can change considerably within a few hours.

Totnes needs particular care. Getting there is only half the challenge, because you also need enough water to return to your mooring or recover your boat.

If navigating independently, a proper, up to date nautical chart is essential. Always check current tide times, Dart Harbour information and Local Notices to Mariners before setting out, rather than relying solely on this guide.

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Wildlife on the River Dart

Regular readers will know that wildlife identification is not our strongest subject, so we will stick mainly to what we actually saw. On this trip, we saw egrets, a heron, Canada geese and seals, although there is considerably more to look out for.

The mudflats and shallows exposed as the tide falls are particularly good feeding grounds for birds. Depending on the season, you may see little egrets and grey herons stalking the water’s edge, together with cormorants, oystercatchers and various ducks, geese and wading birds. Kingfishers are also found along the Dart, although spotting one from a moving passenger boat requires rather better wildlife skills than ours.

The quieter upper river, particularly around Stoke Gabriel, Bow Creek, Sharpham, and the salt marshes approaching Totnes, provides some of the best habitat. Look along exposed mud, reedbeds, wooded banks and small creeks rather than concentrating solely on the open water.

Seals are perhaps easier to get excited about. Both grey and common seals can be found around the Dart estuary, and individuals sometimes travel surprisingly far upriver. We saw seals during our trip, although sightings obviously cannot be guaranteed.

You may also hear about otters on the Dart. They are present within the wider river system but are elusive, particularly on the busy tidal estuary, so seeing one from a cruise would be a considerable bonus.

A pair of binoculars certainly wouldn’t go to waste, particularly if you are travelling around low water when the exposed mudflats provide much more opportunity to see feeding birds.

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Is the Dartmouth to Totnes River Cruise Worth It?

Absolutely. We unashamedly rate the River Dart cruise as one of the best boat trips in Devon, and that isn’t based on a single excursion. We have travelled with Dartmouth River Boats before, explored the upper river in our own small boat and approached Dartmouth from the sea in a larger one. Even after knowing the Dart for years, we still discover something new whenever we return.

What makes the journey special is its variety. Dartmouth and Kingswear are unmistakably maritime, but within a few miles the scenery changes completely. Greenway and Dittisham sit opposite each other across the river; Galmpton hides a long boatbuilding history; Stoke Gabriel is one of our favourite villages on the Dart; and Bow Creek winds towards Tuckenhay through countryside that feels remarkably remote.

Farther upriver, Sharpham brings woodland, country-house history, and a changing landscape before the river eventually reaches Totnes. The town feels completely different from Dartmouth, which is part of the appeal. Its maritime past is not immediately obvious from the streets, but arriving by river reveals how closely Totnes was once connected with shipping and trade.

Along the way are old quays, tidal mills, salmon fishing, vineyards, boatyards, timber ships, and reminders of the Dart’s remarkable role in the preparations for D-Day. There are also some exceptional places to stay, from secluded riverside boathouses at Sandridge and Sharpham to old waterside inns around Tuckenhay. Seeing them from the river helps you understand how closely the villages, industries and communities along the Dart developed around the water.

And through almost everything, the tide runs. It powered mills, determined when ships could reach Totnes and Tuckenhay, allowed landing craft to be exposed for wartime maintenance and still dictates today’s River Dart cruise timetable. It also once left us waiting in the rain at Sharpham Quay after I misjudged whether there would be enough water to get our own boat back to Longmarsh.

Perhaps that is part of why we love the Dart so much. It is beautiful, certainly, but there is far more to it than the scenery. Every bend seems to reveal another story.

A River Dart boat trip makes for a fine day out.

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River Dart Boat Trip FAQs

How long does the Dartmouth to Totnes boat trip take?

The River Dart cruise between Dartmouth and Totnes takes around 90 minutes each way. The exact journey time may vary with the tide, river traffic and operating conditions.

How far is Dartmouth from Totnes by boat?

The tidal River Dart between Dartmouth and Totnes is approximately nine miles long. The cruise covers nearly all the navigable tidal river, passing villages, woodland, farmland and historic riverside estates.

Where does the River Dart start and end?

The East Dart and West Dart rise separately on Dartmoor and meet at Dartmeet. The River Dart then flows south through the Dart Valley to Totnes, where it becomes tidal, before reaching the sea between Dartmouth and Kingswear.

Where does the Dartmouth River cruise leave from?

The Dartmouth to Totnes River Cruise normally leaves from the North Embankment Pontoon in Dartmouth. Cruises travelling in the opposite direction depart from Steamer Quay in Totnes. Check your ticket carefully because ferries and other pleasure cruises also use Dartmouth’s waterfront pontoons.

Where can I find the Dartmouth River cruise timetable?

The official Dartmouth Steam Railway and River Boat Company timetable lists current departure times from Dartmouth and Totnes. Times change from day to day because boats need sufficient tidal depth to reach Totnes, so always check the date of your journey.

How much does the Totnes to Dartmouth River cruise cost?

For 2026, the advertised one way fare between Totnes and Dartmouth is £20 for adults and £14 for children. Return River Dart cruise tickets cost £23 for adults, £17 for children and £72 for a family. Prices can change, so check the official River Dart cruise prices before booking.

Can you take a one way boat trip from Dartmouth to Totnes?

Yes. One way Dartmouth to Totnes and Totnes to Dartmouth boat tickets are available. This makes it possible to travel one way by boat and return by bus or taxi, or stay overnight and continue exploring before returning another day.

Which is the best River Dart boat trip?

For a first visit, we would choose the full Dartmouth to Totnes River Cruise because it covers around nine miles and nearly all the navigable tidal Dart. If you have less time, the shorter circular Dartmouth River Cruise explores the lower river. The Round Robin combines the River Dart cruise with the steam railway, ferry and bus for a longer South Devon day out.

Is the River Dart cruise suitable for older people or passengers with limited mobility?

The relaxed 90 minute cruise can be a good choice for older visitors, but a small degree of mobility is required to board. At Totnes, as many as 13 steps may need to be negotiated at low water. Wheelchair users must be able to walk a few assisted steps at the boarding gate, and motorised wheelchairs and mobility scooters cannot normally be carried. Contact the operator before booking to discuss individual access requirements.

What is the best tide for a River Dart boat trip?

We prefer travelling around high water, when the Dart appears broader and places such as Stoke Gabriel and Bow Creek look particularly attractive. At lower water, mudflats and sandbanks emerge and the deep water channel becomes easier to identify. Published cruise times are already arranged around the tide.

What can you see on the Dartmouth to Totnes River Cruise?

Highlights include Britannia Royal Naval College, Noss, Greenway, Dittisham, Galmpton Creek, Stoke Gabriel, Bow Creek, Sharpham and Totnes. You will also pass historic quays, mills, boatyards, vineyards, wildlife and places connected with fishing, shipbuilding and preparations for D Day.

Are there toilets and refreshments on the River Dart cruise?

There was a toilet and a bar serving hot and cold drinks aboard Cardiff Castle when we travelled. Facilities and payment arrangements can vary between vessels, so check with the operator if either is important to you.

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Links for Boat Trips from Dartmouth

These trusted resources can help you plan and book your trip, from transport and accommodation to weather and local information.

• Booking.com – for most accommodation needs. Look out for options that include free cancellation.
• Easy Tide – Free UK tidal prediction service, providing tidal data and tide times for the current day and 6 days into the future.
• Expedia – good for flights and packages.
• Get Your Guide – find and book things to see. Includes unusual things to do.
• Hostelworld – Hostel-focused booking platform that fosters backpacker connections.
• MetOffice – Weather forecasts from the UK official meteorological office.
• National Express – UK-based coach operator providing long-distance bus services
• Omio – Book travel tickets by comparing trains, buses and planes in one search.
• Rental Cars– to search out and book hire cars.
• Rome2Rio – Great for comparing local transport options (and for locating bus stops).
• Ticketmaster – What’s On – Major Events – Venues – Bookings
• Trainline.com – our go-to online platform for booking train and bus tickets, offering route planning, price comparisons, seat reservations, and ticket sales.
• Traffic England – for live traffic updates on major roads.
• Traveline SW – Comprehensive public transport information from A to B by bus, coach, train, and ferry in South West England and Great Britain.
• TripAdvisor – for reviews of… pretty much everything. Our go-to before booking anything.
• Vrbo – Great for self-catering and vacation holiday home rentals.

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