Just a few miles inland along the Axe Valley from Seaton lie two settlements whose histories are interlinked. Colyton, cheerfully known as “the most rebellious town in Devon,” and its smaller neighbour, Colyford, once a hopeful medieval borough, are today peaceful places full of history, stories, and character, offering the curious an insight into local English history.

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Table Of Contents

Map of Colyton
Colyton: Prosperity, Rebellion, and the Courtenays
Colyford: The Borough That Might Have Been
What to See and do in and around Colyton and Colyford
Getting There and Getting Around
Eating & Drinking in Colyton & Colyford
Where to Stay in Colyton & Colyford
Practicalities and other helpful links
Final Thoughts

Map of Colyton

Colyton: Prosperity, Rebellion, and the Courtenays

The River Coly, Colyton, Devon

Colyton takes its name from the River Coly, which winds through water meadows before joining the River Axe. The settlement appears in the Domesday Book of 1086, listed as part of the estates of Robert, Count of Mortain, half-brother of William the Conqueror. By then, it was already a small but significant community.

Through the medieval and Tudor periods, Colyton prospered. Its fertile land and access to the tidal River Axe made it a natural centre for trade and agriculture. The town grew wealthy, especially from wool, and its merchants and gentry left behind fine houses and civic buildings. The crowning glory is St Andrew’s Church, with its striking 92-foot tower. Step inside and you’ll find medieval carvings, 15th-century bench ends, and impressive monuments to local families.

St Andrew’s Church Colyton

A short walk from the town brings you to the site of Colcombe Castle, once the grand seat of the powerful Courtenay family, Earls of Devon. Built in the late medieval period, Colcombe was a favoured residence until the 17th century. During the English Civil War, much of it was destroyed, and today only fragments survive, incorporated into Colcombe Farm. Yet in its day, it rivalled Powderham Castle as a Courtenay stronghold, demonstrating the influence Colyton once commanded.

But Colyton’s history is not only about prosperity and nobility. It is also a story of defiance. In 1539, after Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries, lands around Colyton were seized from the Courtenays, fuelling local discontent. The town’s ancient charitable trust, the Feoffees of Colyton (that still exists today), emerged in this period, managing land and funds for the benefit of local people.

That independent spirit endured, and in 1685 it surfaced dramatically during the Monmouth Rebellion. When the Duke of Monmouth landed at Lyme Regis to challenge King James II, Colyton sent 105 men to join his cause, a huge number for such a small town. The rebellion failed and many paid dearly, but this act of defiance earned Colyton its lasting nickname: “the most rebellious town in Devon.”

The Monmouth Rebellion (1685)

After Charles II’s death in 1685, the crown passed to his brother James II. Monmouth, encouraged by Protestant supporters who opposed James’s Catholicism, landed at Lyme Regis in Dorset with a small force. His aim was to claim the throne as Charles II’s rightful heir (he even falsely claimed his parents had been secretly married, which would have made him legitimate).

His army of West Country supporters grew but was poorly trained compared to the king’s forces. The rebellion ended in disaster at the Battle of Sedgemoor, the last pitched battle fought on English soil.

Capture & Execution: Monmouth fled but was captured hiding in a ditch. Despite pleading for mercy, he was executed on 15 July 1685 on Tower Hill, London. His death was followed by the infamous Bloody Assizes, overseen by Judge Jeffreys, in which many of his supporters from places like Colyton were executed or transported.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, Colyton had settled into life as a market town. The arrival of the Seaton Branch Line in 1868 brought about significant changes, as it directly linked Colyton and Seaton with the main London–Exeter railway at Axminster. Suddenly, visitors from the capital could reach the seaside in hours rather than days, and the line brought a steady stream of holidaymakers to the Axe Valley. Colyton’s station, just outside the town centre, became a busy hub, with trains carrying both passengers and farm produce.

Like many rural branch lines, however, it fell victim to the Beeching cuts of the 1960s. Passenger services ceased in 1966, the track south of Colyton was lifted, and the station buildings were left derelict.

Tram at Colyton Station

But the story didn’t end there. In the 1970s, enthusiasts revived part of the route as the Seaton Tramway, laying narrow-gauge track over the old formation. Today, instead of steam engines, bright electric trams make the 3 miles (4.8 km), 25-minute journey from Seaton to Colyton, carrying families and walkers through wetlands alive with birdlife. The tramway has turned what might have been a forgotten line into one of East Devon’s best-loved attractions.

The tram draws thousands of visitors each year, many of whom ride all the way to Colyton specifically because it’s the end of the line. For a small town, that steady flow of day-trippers has been hugely beneficial, keeping many cafés, pubs, and small shops in business.

Modern-day Colyton is a small but quietly lively town of just over 3,000 people, bigger than a village, but still with the feel of a close-knit community.

The Market Square, Colyton, Devon

Walking through the narrow lanes around the Market Place, you become aware that history is all around you. The market square still stands at the centre, surrounded not only by old cottages and timber-framed houses but also by cafés, small shops, and the bustle of everyday life. Anton’s, a traditional local and The Colyton Bear Bakery, along with antique shops and galleries, widen its appeal to visitors. There’s a post office, a couple of convenience stores, hairdressers, and a smattering of independent businesses that make Colyton very self-sufficient for its size.

Volunteers staff the Colyton Heritage Centre, which tells the story of the town’s past, the Monmouth Rebellion, the lace industry and the days of the railway. It organises guided walks through the season, usually on a Thursday, that would really bring history to life. See their website for details.

For visitors, Colyton is often first experienced through the tram station at the northern edge of town. The station, with its café and picnic gardens, makes a welcoming arrival point. Many people make a day of it, combining a walk to or from Seaton along the river and through the Seaton Wetlands with a tram trip.

Its setting also shapes Colyton. The Axe Valley surrounds it with farmland and wooded hillsides. Within minutes, you can be on the East Devon Way, walking footpaths that link Colyton with Musbury, Northleigh, or the wetlands at Seaton.

Views across the Axe Valley from a scenic position above Colyton.

Modern Colyton hasn’t been swamped by tourism in the way some West Country towns have. It’s busier in summer, of course, when trams are full and walkers fill the pubs, but it retains the air of a lived-in place.

Colyford: The Borough That Might Have Been

A mile downstream sits Colyford, whose history is defined by ambition and change. In 1207, Thomas Bassett, Lord of Colyton Manor, obtained royal permission to hold a seven-day fair at Colyford during Michaelmas.

By 1230, borough status was granted, and a “new town” was laid out along the old road between Dorchester and Exeter, where it forded the River Coly.

Plots of land called burgage plots were sold to free tenants and tradespeople. Owning one freed you from manorial obligations, creating a settlement of independent townsfolk. Colyford developed quays accessible from the tidal Axe, allowing sea-going vessels to reach the village. For a time, it seemed Colyford might outshine Colyton.

Fate intervened. The Black Death, which occurred in the 14th century, devastated the population. The Axe estuary gradually silted up, cutting off maritime trade. By the early modern period, Colyford’s dreams of borough greatness had faded, and it became a quiet rural community.

Yet Colyford kept reinventing itself. In 1868, the Seaton & Beer Railway opened a station here, bringing new visitors to the valley. The line closed in the 1960s but was reborn as the Seaton Tramway in 1971.

Colyford Goose Fayre

One tradition, however, never died. The Goose Fayre, first held in 1207, continues every September. Locals (and visitors) put on medieval costumes, (model) geese are paraded through the streets, and in a field overlooking the River Axe, stalls recreate the bustle (and flavour) of a medieval fair. For one day a year, Colyford’s old borough status is vividly revived.

Michaelmas and the Goose Fayre

Michaelmas, celebrated at the end of September, marked the end of the harvest season and was traditionally the time when rents were settled and geese were eaten. It was one of the four medieval “quarter days” that structured the English year, alongside Lady Day, Midsummer, and Christmas. In farming communities, Michaelmas was a moment of transition – when summer’s work gave way to autumn and the long nights of winter.

What to See and do in and around Colyton and Colyford

The Chapel of St Michael, Colyford, Devon

St Andrew’s Church, Colyton: The landmark lantern tower dominates the valley. Inside, admire medieval bosses, woodwork, and Courtenay memorials.
Colcombe Castle site: Now part of Colcombe Farm, it hints at the grandeur of the Courtenays’ lost residence.
The Old Town Walk, Colyton: Wander narrow lanes lined with timber-framed houses, Georgian facades, and informative plaques.
St Michael’s Chapel, Colyford: Built in 1888–89 and consecrated in 1903, this small Victorian chapel has a warm, intimate character.
Seaton Tramway: Take the scenic ride between Seaton, Colyford, and Colyton, passing through nature reserves teeming with birdlife.
Goose Fayre (Colyford): A September highlight, reviving 800 years of history with pageantry and plenty of feathers.
Seaton & Axmouth: Explore Seaton’s seafront, wetlands and the Jurassic Coast Discovery Centre, then cross the river to Axmouth for its thatched cottages, historic pubs, and views over the tidal harbour.
Beer & Branscombe: Discover Beer’s fishing beach, quarry caves, and Pecorama gardens, then follow the coast path to Branscombe’s timeless valley of thatched cottages, historic church, and welcoming pubs.

Getting There and Getting Around

Restored 1920s petrol pumps outside the Old Filling Station in Colyford — a rare slice of motoring history.

By road, the town lies just a couple of miles north of Seaton, linked by the A3052 coast road and some smaller lanes. Drivers coming from Exeter or Sidmouth usually follow the coast before turning inland; from the east, Lyme Regis and Axminster are the natural gateways. Parking in the centre of Colyton is limited, so many visitors prefer to leave their car at the Seaton Tramway terminus, where a large car park sits just a short walk from the town square.

Rail travellers should aim for Axminster station, about seven miles away on the main London Waterloo–Exeter line. From there, local buses or taxis make the final stage – check options on Rome2Rio.

Perhaps the best way to arrive, however, is aboard the Seaton Tramway.

Once in Colyton, the best way to get around is simply on foot. The historic centre is compact: narrow lanes radiate from the Market Place, with St Andrew’s Church, the heritage centre, and pubs all within a few minutes’ stroll. For exploring further afield, footpaths thread into the Axe Valley and connect with the East Devon Way, making Colyton a natural base for walkers.

Taxis are available locally, but in limited numbers; booking ahead is advisable, especially in the evening. Buses link Colyton with Axminster, Seaton, and Sidmouth, but services thin out after dark. If you want complete flexibility, a car is practical; however, many visitors find that the combination of trams, footpaths, and the occasional bus makes Colyton perfectly manageable without one.

Eating & Drinking in Colyton & Colyford

The Wheelwright Inn, Colyton, Devon

There are quite a few places to eat and drink in Colyton and Colyford, as a search on Tripadvisor will reveal. Both villages lean more toward pubs and cafés than restaurants, and much of the appeal lies in the opportunity to dine and drink in centuries-old buildings that remain at the heart of community life.

In Colyford, the Wheelwright Inn offers a traditional welcome, with local ales and classic pub food served in a cosy interior that reflects the village’s slower pace. An excellent place to end a wetlands walk with a pint of local beer or cider in hand. Amy’s at the Filling Station is great for breakfast, lunch, coffee and a snack. Conveniently located near the tram station is The White Hart, a dog- and family-friendly pub. Colyford Post Office stocks delicious, locally made pies and pasties.

Colyton, being larger, has a few more options. For something of a treat, Colcombe Castle Hotel in Colyton blends historic charm with refined flavours. Guests can enjoy classic British dishes with a modern twist at Restaurant 1685 or opt for a more relaxed meal in the brasserie. Seasonal, locally sourced produce ensures every plate is fresh and full of character.

A popular pub is the Kingfisher, set just off the Market Place. It serves well-prepared pub classics in a friendly setting, with a reputation for generous portions and a broad selection of local ciders. Nearby, the Gerrard Arms in St Andrew’s Square offers real ales, a great atmosphere, and a tucked-away beer garden that’s popular in summer.

Beyond the pubs, Colyton hides a handful of small cafés and bakeries in its lanes. The Tram Stop Café, located at the Seaton Tramway terminus, is a popular option. Enjoy all-day breakfasts, toasted sandwiches, cream teas, and cakes while taking in the view of trams arriving and departing. You could also visit Finn’s, a boutique deli, bakery and coffee shop by the River Coly, while The Garden Shop combines a garden centre with a cafe and farm shop.

The town also has a few takeaways and a fish and chip shop, which double as practical options if you’re self-catering.

Colyton and Colyford offer a welcoming food scene with a surprisingly wide variety of options, all rooted in Devon comfort, tradition, and local flavour.

Where to Stay in Colyton & Colyford

Colyton White Cottage B&B

Colyton and Colyford don’t have quite the range of accommodation you’ll find in Seaton, but what they offer is full of character. Stays here tend to be in country cottages, traditional pubs, or family-run bed and breakfasts (B&Bs) rather than large hotels.

Both Colyton and Colyford have several options, including some self-catering cottages, often with crooked beams, stone fireplaces, and steep staircases. These are perfect if you want independence and the chance to “live like a local” for a few days.

In Colyford, consider The Old Bakehouse, Colcombe Castle Hotel (a small boutique hotel) and Colyton White Cottage, all of which get excellent reviews. Scattered around the edges of town, often on small farms where you wake to valley views and breakfasts built on local produce.

For families or those on a budget, there are also caravan and camping sites dotted through the Axe Valley, within a few minutes’ drive of Colyton. These offer easy access to both the tramway and the coast while keeping costs lower.

If you prefer a wider range — from small hotels to seafront stays or branded chains — basing yourself in Seaton is another practical choice. From there, you can visit Colyford and Colyton by tram, bus, or a short drive.

The key tip is to book early for peak times, especially summer and during local events like the Colyford Goose Fayre. Rooms in and around Colyton go quickly, and self-catering cottages are often reserved well in advance by repeat visitors who return year after year.

Practicalities and other helpful links

Practicalities

🛍️ Shops & Supermarkets – A good selection of local shops. Nearest supermarket is Seaton. For more specialist items, the nearest city is Exeter. Taunton (Somerset) and Dorchester (Dorset) are also about the same distance.

🏥 Nearest Hospitals – Honiton Hospital Minor Injuries. Call 999/112 for emergencies & 111 for health advice.

🚔 Nearest Police Station – 167 High Street, Honiton, EX14 1LQ. Call 999/112 for emergencies & 101 for non-emergencies.

💊 Pharmacies – for medical advice, prescriptions and over-the-counter medicines.

🍽️ Restaurants – sit-down meals ranging from local cuisine to international.

☕ Cafés & Tea Rooms – casual spots for coffee, cakes, and cream teas.

🍺 Pubs & Bars – traditional inns and modern places to drink.

✈️ Nearest Airport – domestic and European connections from Exeter Airport.

🚆 Railway Station(s) – Axminster: connections to London, Exeter and beyond.

🚌 Bus Services – Local and regional routes. Use Rome2Rio for information and bus stop locations.

🚕 Local Taxis – A small number of services operate in Seaton; pre-booking is advisable, especially in the evenings and at peak holiday times.

🅿️ Car Parks – short and long-stay parking options.

⛽ Petrol Stations & EV Charging – available in Seaton or nearby Kilmington.

💵 Banks, ATMs, and Currency Exchange – cashpoint.

📮 Post Office – sending letters, parcels, and other services.

🛏️ Hotels & B&Bs – places to stay in and around town.

🚻 Public Toilets – Dolphin Street.

🚶 Tourist Information Centre – Esplanade, Seaton EX12 2LT

Final Thoughts

Colyton and Colyford are traditional East Devon villages that reflect some fascinating history. Within walking distance of Seaton and linked by both bus and tram, they make for a great place to stay or visit for a day.

Colyton, known as “the most rebellious town in Devon,” dates back to the Domesday Book and is tied to the Courtenay family and the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685. Today it’s market square, church, pubs, and Seaton Tramway terminus keep it lively and connected.

Colyford is quieter, a former medieval borough where traditions continue. Its annual Goose Fayre continues Michaelmas customs, while trams through the village and nearby wetlands highlight its charm.

Together, these villages offer a real glimpse of East Devon beyond the coast.

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Colyton & Colyford, Devon Travel Guide | Top Things to Do