East Devon|Exeter|Topsham|Exmouth|Budleigh Salterton|Seaton|Sidmouth|Beer & Branscombe|Colyton & Colyford|Axminster|Honiton|Ottery St Mary |Beaches of East Devon|Woodbury Common
Topsham, England, lies on the east bank of the River Exe, just a few miles south of Exeter. Once a bustling port town with shipyards, docks and maritime trade links to the wider world, it is now a popular and picturesque place to visit.
Historically an independent port town, Topsham became part of The City of Exeter in the late 19060 when boundaries were redrawn. However, most still regard it as a distinct riverside town rather than a suburb.
It combines a fascinating history with a busy, independent range of shops, pubs, cafés and heritage attractions, all within easy reach of the city. Its riverside setting gives it a rhythm that is still governed by the tides, the seasons, and there is a strong sense of local life.
This comprehensive guide explores what to see and do in Topsham, how to get there, where to stay and the practical information that helps you make the most of your visit to this part of the River Exe.
Disclosure: Some of the outbound links on this page are affiliate links to sites that we use and would genuinely recommend. Using them doesn’t cost you extra, but it does help support this free guide. We also provide links to other sites where we believe their inclusion may be helpful to you.
- Map of Topsham, England
- The History of Topsham
- What to See and Do in Topsham
- Seasonal Highlights and Events
- Getting There and Getting Around
- Where to eat and drink in Topsham?
- The Topsham Ten
- Where to Stay in Topsham
- Weather on the Exe Estuary
- Practicalities and other helpful links
- Topsham FAQs
- Why we love Topsham
Map of Topsham, England
The History of Topsham
In Roman times, Topsham was situated near Isca Dumnoniorum, which later became known as Exeter.
In Roman times, the city stood at the upper reach of a wide estuary, and ships could sail upriver with relative ease. By the medieval period, Exeter was a thriving inland port. Small sailing vessels worked the tides to bring in wool, wine, salt and other goods from the Channel ports, while local exports such as cloth, leather and agricultural produce left the quayside for markets across southern England and abroad.
Just downriver, Topsham developed as ‘Exeter’s outer harbour’, with deeper water and room for larger ships to load and unload. The two settlements were closely linked, but rivalry grew as Topsham’s trade flourished under the control of the powerful Courtenay family, Earls of Devon.
In the late thirteenth century, Isabella de Fortibus (Countess of Devon) and her successor, Hugh de Courtenay, 9th Earl of Devon, built a series of weirs across the Exe at Countess Wear, a few miles below Exeter, to power their mills and assert control of navigation. The effect was devastating for the city: the river above the weirs silted up, and larger ships could no longer reach the quay.
For the next two and a half centuries, Exeter’s merchants were forced to do business through Topsham, carting their goods down the rough road to the estuary.
By the mid-sixteenth century, the city’s traders had had enough. In 1563, work began on the Exeter Ship Canal, designed by John Trew of Glamorgan. His narrow, three-mile channel curved through meadows and fields to rejoin the river above the weirs, allowing barges and small sailing ships to reach the city once again. The canal was a technical landmark, one of the first in Britain to use a pound lock, and it marked the rebirth of Exeter as a maritime port.
In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Topsham grew as a centre for wool exports, notably to Holland. Its quaysides were lined with merchants’ houses, some of which remain today, with Dutch gables reflecting links with the Low Countries. The town also played a role during times of war, with ships built here contributing to naval efforts.
Trade between Topsham and Holland
From the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries, Dutch and Flemish merchants were regular visitors to the Exe Estuary. They came to buy Devon’s famous serge cloth, a durable woven wool fabric that was in high demand across Europe. Ships from Topsham carried bales of serge, hides and grain to ports such as Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Middelburg and Antwerp, returning with bricks, tiles, timber, wine, and luxury goods.
Because the Exe was tidal and shallow, larger vessels often anchored off Topsham while cargoes were lightered upriver to Exeter by barge. As the canal trade grew after 1563, Topsham became a busy trans-shipment point between ocean-going craft and the smaller canal barges heading into the city. Much of Exeter’s export wealth literally passed through Topsham’s quays.
The Dutch bricks and architectural style
One of the most visible legacies of this trade lies in the town’s buildings. The distinctive red-brown Dutch bricks seen along the quay and in nearby houses were used as ballast in ships returning from Holland. When the cargoes of cloth were sold, the ballast was unloaded and quickly put to use by local builders who admired its neat size and rich colour. These imported bricks, rare elsewhere in Devon at the time, gave rise to the Dutch-style gables and elegant merchant houses that line Topsham’s waterfront — features more reminiscent of Amsterdam than a West Country port.
The Dutch House on The Strand, with its crow-stepped gable, is the best-known example, but many smaller houses show similar details: symmetrical façades, large sash windows and patterned brickwork. Together they create one of the most distinctive streetscapes in the South West.
By the Victorian era, the railway and changes in shipping reduced Topsham’s importance as a port.
Gradually, it shifted from a working maritime hub to a quieter residential and local trading town. In the twentieth century, tourism and leisure began to assume a more significant role. Visitors were drawn to its peaceful riverside setting, antique shops and historic streets.
Today, Topsham is both an affluent commuter town for Exeter and a destination in its own right. Its independent businesses, food scene, antiques centres and heritage make it an enjoyable place to visit throughout the year.
What to See and Do in Topsham
Topsham may be small, but it offers a variety of sights and activities. The best way to explore is on foot, allowing time to appreciate its history, independent shops, cafes, bars, and restaurants, as well as the river views and its unique independent spirit.
The Topsham Museum, located near the quay, is an ideal starting point. Run by volunteers in a historic quayside house, it sets the scene with shipbuilding, estuary wildlife, local life and the stories of people connected to the town. Expect ship models, maritime tools, costumes and photographs that give helpful context before you head out to explore.
The museum’s Topsham Town Trails leaflet is available to download (or to pick up in person) and is highly recommended. It combines a clear map with two self-guided routes: one loops by the river and back via Fore Street, the other is a little longer, following the Goat Walk and returning past Bowling Green Marsh. Both give a gentle introduction to Topsham’s waterfront, lanes and bird-rich estuary views.
Topsham Museum — Temporary Closure
Topsham Museum is currently closed for major structural repairs. Work began in late 2024 after the discovery of significant issues with the building’s external render and timber frame. The closure includes the museum and tea room andand the restoration project is expected to continue into 2026.
During the closure the volunteer team is running talks and online features, and regular updates are posted on the museum’s website at topshammuseum.org.uk. Visitors can still enjoy the museum’s setting from the riverside path and explore Topsham’s wider maritime heritage along The Strand and the quay.
A natural starting point for any visit is the quay, where you will see Topsham Antique Centre. This popular, multi-dealer space occupies a former (post-war) flour storage building, which is now packed with furniture, glassware, ceramics, silver, paintings and curios. It is a treasure trove where you can easily lose an hour or two browsing.
The town’s location on the Exe makes it excellent for walking. A favourite short route follows the riverside north towards Exeter along the Exe Estuary Trail, which connects Exmouth and Exeter for walkers and cyclists. Cycle hire is available at Route2 Bikes, located on Holman Way (which is in itself interesting as the former route of the railway line to the quay).
Another pleasant route crosses the river by the Topsham Ferry or Topsham to Turf Ferry (seasonal) before heading south towards the marshes and deer park opposite Powderham, Dawlish Warren and Dawlish (with return possible by train).
Birdwatchers will enjoy the estuary at low tide, when wading birds, curlews and avocets feed on the mud. In winter, the area becomes a key stop for migratory species. RSPB Bowling Green and Goosemoor sit where the Exe meets the Clyst, a short walk from Topsham, and offer some of the easiest, closest birdwatching on the estuary.
The wheelchair-accessible Lookout hide overlooks pools that brim with winter wigeon, dunlin, and black-tailed godwit, with regular avocets and little grebes. At the same time, the estuary viewpoint opens to big skies over mudflats and salt marsh. Paths are level and easy, and you can reach the reserve on foot or by bike via the Exe Estuary Trail; for the best spectacle, time your visit for a high tide in autumn or winter.
Sailing on the Exe is part of daily life in Topsham. Topsham Sailing Club runs active cruiser and dinghy fleets with evening and weekend racing, and the wider River Exe Regatta brings clubs together for estuary racing each summer.
Paddle sports are a good fit with the calm upper estuary and the adjacent Exeter Ship Canal. From nearby Exeter Quay, you can hire kayaks, canoes and paddleboards or join guided trips that often reach the Topsham stretch and out toward Turf Locks. Exmouth also has hire and lesson centres if you want more open water or coastal routes.
Just outside town is Darts Farm, a long-standing local favourite. Award-winning, it combines a farm shop, deli, café, gardens, gift shops and seasonal events. Whether you want to stock up on local produce or enjoy lunch on one of the picnic tables with a view of the fields, it is well worth including in your visit to Topsham Darts Farm.
Heritage walks, museum open days and community events add texture to a stay. Topsham has a lively calendar of small markets and fairs, especially in spring and summer.
Topsham Town Centre and Shopping
Topsham’s town centre is a pleasure to explore. Unlike places that have become dominated by chains, Topsham retains many independent shops. Along the main street and surrounding lanes, you find galleries, craft shops, gift shops, homeware, clothing boutiques and local food specialists.
The Topsham Quay Antique Centre is a strong draw for shoppers, but it is far from the only reason to browse. Small shops show a personal, local touch.
Essential services are present too. There is a Topsham Pharmacy for health needs and a Topsham post office for stamps, parcels and other services. Everyday essentials are available at small convenience stores and local grocers, making Topsham feel like a lived-in place rather than a preserved set piece.
Seasonal Highlights and Events
The Exe estuary gives Topsham a true sense of season.
In spring, the shore wakes with birdlife and wildflowers, and the first warm days make the Goat Walk and riverside paths irresistible.
Summer brings boats on the tide, café and pub tables spilling outdoors and a full diary: the Exe Regatta brings sailing action in July. By late August, the town marks its medieval roots with Charter Day over the Bank Holiday weekend. Autumn softens the light for estuary walks and Heritage Open Days tours, a chance to peek behind historic doors. Winter is quieter and beautifully atmospheric: the Saturday Market at Matthews Hall continues each week, the Christmas Lights switch-on takes place in late November, and a festive market follows in early December. In even-numbered years, you may catch the Secret Gardens (early June), and throughout the museum season, there are talks and special exhibitions. None of these is a grand spectacle, but together they reveal a strong sense of community that makes visitors want to return.
Getting There and Getting Around
Topsham is well-connected. By road, it lies just off the A376 between Exeter and Exmouth. It is only a short drive from the city, making it an easy day trip.
Topsham station is on the Avocet Line, a scenic local railway running between Exeter and Exmouth. When it comes to visiting the towns and villages along the Exe, we are great fans of the train, which offers half-hourly departures, making it easy to reach Topsham without a car. The station is within easy and level walking distance of the town centre and quay.
Bus services link Topsham with Exeter and the surrounding communities. Cycling is popular thanks to the Exe Estuary Trail. Walking is the best way to get around once you arrive, as both centres are compact.
Parking can be minimal at busy times, particularly during the summer. The largest car park is located off Holman Way, with another one situated behind the Old Fire Station. Both are pay and display. On-street parking is similarly limited.
Where to eat and drink in Topsham?
Food and drink are part of the draw. In Topsham, there are numerous cafes offering high-quality coffee, homemade cakes, brunches, and light lunches. Route 2 Café is a reliable stop near the quay for all-day breakfasts, flat whites and cream teas, while Sara’s Petite Cuisine is loved for its patisserie-style cakes and friendly service. If you want waterside ambience, The Boathouse on the quay pairs coffee with estuary views, perfect after a riverside stroll.
When it comes to restaurants, The Galley is the town’s long-standing fine-dining favourite with seafood-led menus. At the same time, The Restaurant at The Salutation Hotel serves polished Modern British dishes in elegant surroundings.
The town is also known for its (historic) pubs.
Just on the edge of Topsham and near Darts Farm, The Bridge Inn on Bridge Hill is a riverside classic with a nationally recognised historic interior and long-standing family stewardship; Queen Elizabeth II even visited in 1998, and cask ales are still served straight from the cellar.
In the centre, The Globe is a 16th-century coaching inn offering rooms and a full restaurant menu, making it a good all-round choice after a town walk. A few doors away, The Salutation Inn has been in operation since at least 1720; today, it’s known for its polished dining and handsome Georgian frontage.
Down on the quay, The Lighter Inn takes its name from the flat-bottomed boats that unloaded ships here; it remains a lively waterside spot for food and drinks after a stroll along the estuary.
By Topsham Ferry, The Passage House Inn is situated in an 18th-century building on the waterfront, with a history tied to the old crossing; it’s a scenic spot for lunch or a pint, offering river views. The Lord Nelson adds a later-Victorian note to the line-up, long a locals’ favourite and still trading in the heart of town.
The Topsham Ten
The Topsham Ten is a local tradition once very popular with Exeter students that sees groups attempt a ‘ten pub challenge’ around the town, visiting every bar from the quay to the high street. It’s less of a race and more of a sociable wander, celebrating Topsham’s lively pub scene.
Where to Stay in Topsham
Topsham accommodation options include inns, B&Bs, and self-catering properties, all located right in the centre. The Salutation Inn and The Globe both offer rooms in historic buildings close to Fore Street, making them a convenient choice if you want to step straight out to the shops, quay, and pubs.
For more independence, Route 2 Apartments by the quay offer kitchens and space to store bikes, making them handy for the Exe Estuary Trail.
Just outside town, you will find more choices at different price points. Lympstone Manor is the high-end option with estuary views and fine dining. For straightforward parking and road access, Premier Inn Exeter Countess Wear and the Courtyard by Marriott at Sandy Park are practical bases a short drive away.
B&Bs such as Riverdown in Exton provide home-cooked breakfasts and local advice, with easy access to trains on the Avocet Line.
Book early for peak seasons and school holiday weekends, especially if you want a river view or a family room. Check the minimum-stay rules for cottages and apartments, ask about on-site parking in the historic streets, and confirm if pet-friendly or accessible rooms are available if needed. Trains and buses run regularly, making Topsham an ideal, car-free destination.
Weather on the Exe Estuary
The estuary shares a temperate maritime climate. Summers are mild and pleasant, making them ideal for walking, taking boat trips, and sitting outside cafés. Spring and autumn offer soft light, quieter streets and good walking conditions. Winters are cooler and can be wet or windy, but the landscape remains beautiful, and both places have a calm, reflective atmosphere at this time of year. If you plan estuary walks, keep an eye on the forecast and on the Topsham tide times to avoid flooded paths or sticky mud.
Practicalities and other helpful links
Topsham Practicalities
🛍️ Shops & supermarkets – independent stores along Fore Street; larger supermarkets and Darts Farm a short drive away.
🏥 Nearest hospital – A&E at Royal Devon & Exeter (Wonford). Call 999/112 for emergencies, 111 for health advice.
🚔 Police – served by Devon & Cornwall Police. Call 999/112 for emergencies, 101 for non-emergencies.
💊 Pharmacies – Topsham Pharmacy, Fore Street for prescriptions and advice.
🍽️ Restaurants – choice of riverside and town-centre dining, from pubs to refined modern British.
☕ Cafés & tea rooms – plenty of spots for coffee, cakes and cream teas.
🍺 Pubs & bars – historic inns and waterside pubs around the quay and ferry.
✈️ Nearest airport – Exeter Airport (approx. 15–20 mins by car, traffic dependent).
🚆 Railway station – Topsham station on the Avocet Line with regular services to Exeter and Exmouth.
🚌 Buses – frequent services linking Topsham with Exeter, Exmouth and nearby villages.
🅿️ Car parks – Holman Way, Matthews Hall and the Quay (check tides and signage at waterfront locations).
⛽ Petrol & EV charging – local fuel stations on main approaches; EV chargepoints signposted in town and at nearby sites such as Darts Farm.
💵 Banks & ATMs – cash machines available in town and at nearby supermarkets.
📮 Post Office – central Topsham for letters, parcels and other services.
🛏️ Hotels & B&Bs – town-centre rooms, riverside inns and self-catering nearby.
🚻 Public toilets – available at the quay.
🚶 Visitor information – online via Visit Exeter and local venues; Topsham Museum provides heritage info (building currently under restoration).
Other Helpful Links
- Booking.com – for most accommodation needs. Look out for options that include free cancellation.
- Easy Tide – Free UK tidal prediction service, providing tidal data and tide times for the current day and 6 days into the future.
- Expedia – good for flights and packages.
- Get Your Guide – find and book things to see. Includes unusual things to do.
- Hostelworld – Hostel-focused booking platform that fosters backpack connections.
- MetOffice – Weather forecasts from the UK official meteorological office.
- National Express – UK-based coach operator providing long-distance bus services
- Omio – Book travel tickets by comparing trains, buses and planes in one search.
- Rental Cars – to search out and book hire cars.
- Rome2Rio – Great for comparing local transport options (and for locating bus stops).
- Ticketmaster – What’s On – Major Events – Venues – Bookings
- Trainline.com – our go-to online platform for booking train and bus tickets, offering route planning, price comparisons, seat reservations, and ticket sales.
- Traffic England – for live traffic updates on major roads.
- Traveline SW – Comprehensive public transport information from A to B by bus, coach, train, ferry in South West England and Great Britain.
- TripAdvisor – for reviews of… pretty much everything. Our go-to before booking anything.
- Vrbo – Great for self-catering and vacation holiday home rentals.
Topsham FAQs
Is Topsham part of Exeter?
Yes. Topsham sits within the City of Exeter boundary but keeps a distinct riverside character and town centre of its own.
Is Topsham Museum open?
The museum building is closed for restoration, with reopening not expected before 2026. Self-guided town trails and updates are available online.
Does the Exe Estuary Trail pass through Topsham?
Yes. The shared walking and cycling route links Topsham with Exeter, Lympstone and Exmouth, with level access near the quay and station.
Are there ferries from Topsham?
Seasonal ferries operate across the river towards Turf and to the opposite bank. Services are tide and weather dependent, so check times locally.
Where can I park in Topsham?
Holman Way and Matthews Hall are the main car parks. Quayside spaces are limited and can be affected by high tides; always check local signage.
Is Topsham good for birdwatching?
Yes. RSPB Bowling Green Marsh and Goosemoor sit on the edge of town. High tides in autumn and winter bring large flocks within easy viewing distance.
Are dogs allowed on the estuary paths?
Most paths are dog friendly. Keep dogs under close control, use leads around livestock and sensitive habitats, and follow any seasonal notices.
What are the historic pubs in Topsham?
The Bridge Inn, the Globe, the Salutation Inn, the Passage House Inn and the Lord Nelson are long-standing favourites, with food and drink in characterful settings.
Can I do a self-guided walk?
Yes. The museum’s downloadable town trails cover the quay, Fore Street and the Goat Walk, with easy variations to Bowling Green Marsh.
When is the best time to visit?
Late spring to early autumn suits riverside walks and café stops. Autumn light and winter birding are excellent; bring layers and check tide times.
How do I get to Topsham without a car?
Topsham station on the Avocet Line has regular trains from Exeter and Exmouth. Buses link nearby towns, and the Exe Estuary Trail makes cycling straightforward.
Is the waterfront accessible?
Many sections are level and step-free, including parts of the Exe Estuary Trail and the Bowling Green Marsh hide. Cobblestones and tides can affect access near the quay.
Why we love Topsham
We love Topsham because it makes you want to set out for a walk along the river straight away. Start at the quay, watch the water slip by, then wander for a coffee and cake or pop into one of the many pubs for a well-earned pint. We always find ourselves drawn to the Goat Walk, so named because it is barely wide enough for a goat, with lovely views across the estuary at sunset.
The town’s history lies quietly in the brick and timber, in the Dutch-style gables and the old lanes that beckon to be explored.
It is the mix of riverside walks, wide-open estuary views, and that easy-going atmosphere that keeps calling you back. Visit once and you will see why we love Topsham, and why it might just become your favourite small town by the water.
Over to you … have you recently travelled to South West England? What worked for you? What advice would you give to others? Please leave your comments below or join in the discussion in our Facebook Group.
New to South West England or returning after a while? Start with our ‘Travel Basics’ – quick guides packed with tips to help you plan your trip.
